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Smallies! Upper Potomac (MD/VA - Point of Rocks Upstream)

Friday, August 08, 2008

 The Basswife has always been afraid of rapids when we take the canoe out on rivers.  With my current obsession with smallmouth bass, this was a real problem.  I am not interested in fishing on lakes for largemouth bass, I want to go after the smallies.  The solution was to look at the Upper Potomac.  Upon careful study of the fishing map, it was clear to me that most of the access points featured slack water where the river runs wide and shallow.  The giveaway on the map where the markings for wading areas in the vicinity of the launch points.  With that criteria in mind, I noted a marked wading area downstream of Point of Rocks so we headed there to see what it had to offer.

Point of Rocks features dueling access points on both the Maryland and Virginia shores at the base of the bridge that connects the two states.  After fighting through the Saturday traffic on route 15 leading to the only crossing for miles, we pulled off and rolled into the launch point on the Virginia side.  No secrets here!  The parking lot was full of trucks and cars; many of which had boat trailers attached.  In addition, there had to be 50 to 75 people enjoying picnics and splashing in the river on the impromptu beach downstream of the bridge.  I walked to the launch point and looked up and downstream and was encouraged by what I saw.  I did not see anything.  There were a few kayaks moving downstream, but I did not see anyone fishing.

Not that I would have changed my plans, but this was an encouraging development.  We loaded up the canoe and motored upstream with the trolling motor set on high speed.  In flat water on a lake, the basscanoe moves along at 3.4 mph.  Chugging upstream into the current, the best we could do was 1.7 to 2 mph.  I moved over closer to the shore in the hopes of getting out of the current but it seems like the entire river was moving downstream -- there was no slack area.  My plan was to move upstream about a mile to the base of the rapids that I could see from the launch point.  My hope was that the smallies would hold downstream of the rough water and we would have good luck fishing in fast current. 

We eventually got to my chosen location and I pulled the canoe over to the shore to complete the rigging of the spin gear we were going to use.  I must have been on drugs because I actually had a fleeting thought as I pulled the canoe to the bank and saw the shallow water that perhaps we would wade fish a bit.  The basswife waded out into the river and promptly announced that she did not like to feel "things" touch her bare leg.  So much for wading. 

Not a problem, we launched the canoe and pulled out into the current.  I discovered that I could run the motor in reverse and hold our position fairly easily.  The trolling motor has three reverse speeds and the second setting allowed us to drift slowly downstream which is exactly what I was looking for.  We were using powerbait flavored grub lures weighted down with 1/4 ounce split shot.  The technique was to flip it out into the current, and let the current roll the bait downstream, keep the line tight, and wait for the hit.  We were not there very long before we started to get action from both bluegills and smallies.

I moved the canoe left and right in the river to allow us to flip the bait into different areas of the river.  I would hold it generally the same spot until the action slowed and then move downstream.  We picked up a good number of smallies and an uncountable number of bluegill following this technique.  We used grub lures that were small -- the 2 inch variety. 

I suspect that the fish in this river are used to seeing the larger bass lures and are wary of them.  Although I did not try anything that was larger than a small grub or the similarly sized power nymphs, I suspect that is the case.  Without actually trying to fish with the normal bass baits, this is pure conjecture.  I probably missed bigger fish by not using 6 inch worms or other typical plastic patterns.  I'll have to try that next time.

Last weekend, I returned to Point of Rocks with Dick and we motored up to the same spot, parked the canoe on the shore and wade fished using fly rods.  You actually can wade from the launch point all the way up to the rapids by moving to the center of the river.  Discounting the deeper holes that are scattered throughout this section, there is no problem gaining access to all parts of this river on foot in this section.  We had great luck fishing above the rapids and continued to pick up a good number of smallies and any number of bluegill.  Dick used a small sculpin pattern while I was sticking with my "bass rig" set up that terminated my fly rod with a 2 inch grub.

There did not appear to be a great number of people fishing in this stretch on either visit.  Granted, you would get the kayakers or canoeists who would drift through with the current - flicking here and there - but not being able to hold a position for any length of time.  Without being able to stop, it limits the amount of pressure on this section.  I actually saw another fly guy working the area around the creek junction on the map above.

Pressure Trout Size N/A
Physical Fitness Bass Size
Access Regulations
Hard to Find Stocking
Scenery Overall

Remember to refer to my rating explanations - these are based on what I look for - so RED for Physical Fitness translates to easy physically - you do not need to be in shape to fish this section.  I prefer terrain that is tough to get into and out of.


Bottom line: I like Point of Rocks.  I know it's busy given the density of cars in the parking lot and the throng of people near the bridge.  However, it did not seem like they venture very far in the river and the real boat guys probably run a greater distance up or downstream to get away from their perception of density and pressure.  The trolling motor on the canoe provided plenty of flexibility for me to move around this section.  I'm anxious to go back and see what the fishing is like downstream of the bridge and if there is the opportunity to wade in that region as well as the fishing map indicates.

There is a well developed trail that leads all the way to the junction of the creek on the west side of the river.  From the water, I could not see if it goes beyond the creek.  However, the property on the west side is posted so that trail is probably illegal to use.

Getting There: I hate to do this, but I support the site by selling books.  My book on the Upper Potomac - "Wade and Shoreline Fishing the Potomac River for Smallmouth Bass" is available in both ebook format (instant download) or traditional print.

This book walks the 57.3 miles upstream from the Chain Bridge in DC to Harpers Ferry, WV using words, annotated maps and over 200 pictures to provide you exact references while removing any doubt about what to expect in each section of the river.  The 230+pages include detailed directions, 42 maps, 45 tables and 208 GPS coordinates - more detail than you will see in any other fishing guidebook.

You can purchase the eBook version for $9.95 by clicking on the buttons below:

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To purchase the traditional print version:

Secrets Revealed?  No.  This is a very public location that is documented in any number of places - notably Ken Penrod's book - or just ask the 50 people who will be under the bridge...

First time I ever saw another fly guy on the Potomac

Looking back to the bridge

Looking upstream away from the launch point

Typical smallie from this area. Caught above the riffles at the top of the track on the map above

Unless stated otherwise, this article was authored by Steve Moore

Disclaimer and Warning:  The contents of this site reflect the opinion of the author and you, the reader, must exercise care in the use and interpretation of this information.  Fishing is a dangerous sport.  You can slip and fall on rocks and sustain severe injury.  You can drown.  You can get hooks caught in your skin, face, eyes or other sensitive places.  All sorts of bad things can happen to you when to go into the woods to visit the places documented here.  Forests, streams and lakes are wild areas and any number of bad things can happen.  You must make your own judgment in terms of acceptable behavior and risk and not rely on anything posted here.  Calibrated Consulting, Inc disclaims all liability and responsibility for any actions you take as a result of reading the articles on this site.  If you do not agree with this, you should not read anything posted on this site.

Finally, access points may be different or restricted based on changes in property ownership since posting the original article.  It is up to you to make sure you are fishing where it is legal.

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